Cherry Tree in Norfolk and other intensive pig and chicken farms owned by Cranswick, the FTSE 250 food producer, are now struggling against opposition from locals and animal welfare and environmental campaigners. The farm manager faces regular complaints from one nearby resident in particular, although the Environment Agency has “only confirmed strong odours on a few occasions”.
This culminated in
April when Cranswick’s plan to build a “megafarm” to raise 14,000 pigs and
714,000 chickens at a time at an existing pig farm near two Norfolk villages
was rejected by the borough council. It drew thousands of objections, including
from Terry Jermy, Labour MP for West Norfolk, who declared it was “not the kind
of farming this country wants or needs.”
Cranswick’s reputation was further damaged last week by the
revelation in the Mail on Sunday of cruelty, including killing piglets with
blunt force, at one of its 400 pig farms. Its shares fell by 9 per cent as
supermarkets suspended supplies from the Lincolnshire farm, which had been
certified by the Red Tractor “farmed with care” scheme. Cranswick describes the
mistreatment as “wholly unacceptable.”
That contrasts with Cranswick’s growth in recent years, with
its share price rising by 74 per cent since May 2023 to a market capitalisation
of £3bn. It was founded in 1975 to make pig feed but has steadily expanded,
entering chicken farming in 2016. Its shares recovered on Tuesday to a record
high as it announced a 14.6 per cent rise in pre-tax profits for the year to
March. Like the odour at Cherry Tree Farm, an air of unreality hangs over the
anti-Cranswick campaign.
The cruelty in Lincolnshire was reprehensible and the
company must prove it was isolated. But it generally conforms to
supermarket-monitored welfare and environmental standards and its practices are
akin to many farms.
Take one Cranswick chicken farm the Finanvial Times visited,
where 33,000 eggs per shed are laid out on straw to hatch. The fast-growing
chickens that emerge spend their brief lives in sheds, pecking at bales for up
to 38 days before being slaughtered. Nearly 300,000 chickens are raised at a
time at a nearby Cranswick farm with eight sheds. There are no cages and
welfare standards have tightened. Cranswick just increased the space per bird
in sheds by 20 per cent to 16 per square metre to comply with supermarket
edicts.
It faces pressure to switch to more natural, slower growing
varieties, which take longer to reach their final weight, under the Better
Chicken Commitment campaign. Cranswick wants to build 20 chicken sheds at its
site near the villages of Feltwell and Methwold, and a smaller number of new
pig sheds. Despite its promised improvements, such as air scrubbers to curb
emissions, it has been spurned. It is now raising 7,500 pigs there in ageing
barns (the site has a permit for 29,000).
While many prefer
farms to be small-scale and free range, that can have drawbacks: free-range
chicken farms have been blamed for some pollution in the River Wye because it
is harder to contain waste.
The council ruled that Cranswick’s proposed new facility
could harm the local environment and strangely cited a 2024 Supreme Court
ruling on global warming and oil wells. The campaign, although largely
principled, is impractical.
The UK relies on intensive farming for self-sufficiency,
rather than importing EU chicken and pork raised to similar standards.
Companies such as Cranswick need more space to keep filling supermarkets. The
UK produces 1.2bn chickens for eating a year but met only 82 per cent of
poultry demand in 2023.
Cranswick can appeal
and the application could be called in by Angela Rayner as housing secretary.
“A pig is as clean as you make it,” the farm manager told the Pink ‘Un. Given
the stakes for the country, someone should clear up the mess.
The writer of this blog has a substanial shareholiding in Cranswick